Beyond implementing the emergency stop button, having all power switches in a single place and with a visual cue as to what is currently turned on is very convenient:If you are using a G-code sender that supports keyboard shortcuts, it can be convenient to use a remote keypad (wireless or wired) for those shortcuts, so that the jogging/probing commands can be used without looking at the computer screen. For maintenance reasons the ability to remove/raise the top of the enclosure out of the way is handy. Can someone help me pleasee This section is a brief overview of the usual elements of a Shapeoko setup in the workshop, and focuses on the "why" and "what's important" in each element, rather than describing all possible options (which would be impossible, user setups vary wildly! They come in two main types:the dust shoe can be attached to the router (or elsewhere on the moving part of the Z-plate). While it should work going back to even the Kickstarter Nomads (what we call the non-Pro Nomads), there have been reports of errors being thrown by GRBL on those boards. Mine is wireless and costs about 20$, I printed custom labels for the actions I use most, and then mapped the underlying keys to the associated actions in my G-code sender.You can also go crazy and buy a fancy keypad with programmable OLED displays on each key, and dynamically switch between different keymap configurations.While a dust collection system works great for cutting wood & plastics, cutting is different: the chips may be too heavy to be efficiently sucked out of the cut, and if any lubrication is required it is incompatible with the use of a dust shoe.The usual solution is to use an air jet to push the chips away from the cut. You probably also want to set the step idle delay ($7) to 255 so the motors are locked all the time and the machine will not drift or get bumped. When the toolpaths are such that the dust shoe will move past the edges of the stock surface, it is useful to add extra material (of the same thickness) around the stock, to ensure that suction power remains optimal throughout the job.While it is possible to connect a shop vacuum directly to the dust shoe, it turns out to be inconvenient, and potentially unsafe: inconvenient because the amount of chips produced when cutting with a CNC can be significant, and you would end up replacing the shop vacuum paper bag very often.potentially unsafe because cutting some materials ( MDF) produce fine dust instead of chips. Shapeoko 3 CNC Laser Upgrade. It has been available in several versions as discussed on the page Shapeoko 3 Launch.. (the picture shows an aluminium bed, which also helps the rigidity, but that is a story for the CNC is just messy. The first step to using work coordinate systems is to enable homing. #define DEFAULTS_SHAPEOKO_3 (This sets the pins to the correct pins based on the controller layout. Congratulations! … As many others have done, I removed the four feet. on the forum, and captured them here for reference:$27=1.000 (Homing switch pull-off distance, millimeters)$112=1400.000 (Z-axis maximum rate for HDZ, mm/min, 1000 for stock Z axis)These values can be tuned from the MDI menu in Carbide Motion, or from the G-code command shell in any other G-code sender.Those GRBL settings are now the standard values in Carbide Motion, starting from version 505Note that those increased MAX speeds are fine for rapid moves outside the material, but it will still be your responsibility to program adequate cutting feedrates in the toolpaths, which are usually much lower than those limits. Before you get started, there are a few things you should know about your engraver and how to set it up to get the most out of your jobs. The new shapeoko 3 is now out, so why don’t we put a laser on it! The electronics work on 110V or 220v. They are called "Z-independent" dust shoes, here's a picture of such a dust shoe installed on my machine:The main benefit of a Z-independent dust shoe is that suction is optimal (since the bristles can be adjusted to be flush against the stock surface), and there is no need to worry about cutting depths. All Nomads, Shapeoko XL and XXL machines and Shapeoko 3’s with homing switches. the front side should be a window, you will want to be able to check what is going on at all times.with the dust collection/shop vacuum, which is commonly placed underneath the enclosure.the router can reach beyond the limits of the bed/wasteboard on the front side, and this can turn out to be very useful (stock overhanging on the front), so the enclosure should not prevent this.covering the side walls with a sound-absorbing material helps dampening the noise.you will probably want to install (LED) lighting inside the enclosure, at 360° if possible to avoid shadows on the work area.provision areas for installing various controls (see control panel below), a VFD controller when you upgrade to a spindle, etc...While you are designing your enclosure, why not plan to add a custom power control panel at the same time? Click the ‘Toggle Shapeoko Homing’ button.

We have had great success with the original shapeoko 1 and 2 upgrades, so it is not much different. The structure and electronics are basically immune to low/high temps and humidity, but the MDF bed is prone to absorb moisture.spare space around the machine (especially above the machine) comes in handyto accomodate an enclosure, itself larger than the machine by a good marginto have room to fit a dust collection system underneath/next to the machineto support tiling (feeding long pieces from the front or back of the machine, through to the other side).height: having the machine installed at arm/desk level is best.